Toe Numbness

This weekend I took a ride along my usual route of the south shore lake trail. In order to adequately describe the situation, I have to back up to earlier that morning. My aunt and uncle were in town for a concert the night before and I had met them at Cafe Du Monde for some coffee and beignets (fried squares of dough, think french donut covered in a pound of powdered sugar). This was what constituted the entirety of my breakfast that day. Let me just say this as clearly as possible, beignets are not the breakfast of champions...

I started my ride with a warm up to the trail. Once on the trail, I picked up the pace and maintained a cruising speed of about 15 mph. For the first 6 miles of the ride, I regretted my decision to have beignets. The powered sugar and grease had formed some sort of unholy alliance in my stomach and made me feel as though I was carrying a 20 pound baby made of bricks. As the miles wore on, my speed steadily decreased.

Luckily, about 4.5 miles into the ride, I was passed by two guys riding at a pace I hoped to maintain (one on a Scott and the other on a Schwinn Le Tour). I snuck in behind them and resolved to stay with them no matter what. For the next two miles, my mind was distracted by the desire not to drop off my new unofficial pack. At 6.5 miles, we came to the end of the trail and the pair road off. I, however, was not done. I turned around and began the journey to the other end of the trail.

I had only ridden another two miles when I experienced something I had never felt before while riding. As I neared the 9 mile mark, my toes on both feet went completely numb. I adjusted the straps on my shoes hoping the increased blood flow would resolve the issue but the problem persisted. Around this same time, my chain started to jump between gears with every shift. Every downshift would provide one full revolution of the crank in the proper gear then the chain would begin to slip between the higher gear selected and the lower gear I had just left. I continued on for a quarter of a mile to diagnose exactly what was wrong, figuring that I must have knocked something out of alignment when I services my chain before the ride.

I was forced to stop and adjust the rear derailleur. Luckily this solved two problems: First, the derailleur was fixed and I could continue the ride with smooth pedal strokes. Second, my toe numbness went away. I was only off the bike for two or three minutes but the feeling in my toes had returned and the problem never returned throughout the rest of the ride.

I continued to the opposite end of the trail and then rode back to my entry point and ultimately home. In just over 30 miles of riding, I had experienced more nuisances than I ever had before in an entire week of riding. That said, I still got to spend some quality time on my bike, with my thoughts, and enjoying what the day had to offer me.

One last note in regards to this report: The Bontrager Fusion Gel gloves that I have been using will soon find that they have been replaced. I have made every adjustment possible to my hand position and the contact point of my hands on the bike. There is simply no way to make these gloves comfortable. I may soon find myself reverting back to Pearl Izumi Gels or Specialized BG gloves but Bontrager gloves will no longer be a part of my cycling equipment. Ultimately, the shotty quality and padding design cannot be overcome. These gloves have the least effective padding of any gloves I have ever tried. Those who know me or are regular readers of this blog know that I love my Bontrager Privateer and therefore want to give the benefit of the doubt to anything with that name (yes, I know it is now a marketing tool only but a little willful disbelief never hurt anyone). That said, there is no excuse for these gloves...

It May Be Time For A New Cockpit

Lately I have been toying with the idea of swapping out the handlebar and stem on my Bontrager. The original bar, Bontrager Race, is 560mm wide with a 5 degree bend. It is a flat bar with no rise whatsoever. Although it has served me well over the past 18 years, I am becoming increasingly sensitive to pain and numbness in my hands.

The stem is a relatively new Soma Shotwell in 100mm. There is also an additional issue of a growing awareness of the amount of weight over the front wheel. This has become much more pronounced since switching to a rigid fork. This will likely necessitate a swap to a shorter stem to move some of my body weight back.

When I purchased the Bontrager in '96, 25.4mm was the industry standard for clamp diameter on handlebars and stems. Since that time, the standard has changed to 31.8mm. Because of this, I feel it would be easier to simply swap both which would allow for a greater choice in which bar and which stem instead of restricting me to the antiquated 25.4mm clamp size.

Now comes the task of choosing a new cockpit. Handlebars come in flat, low rise, medium rise, and high rise, all of which are available with varying degrees of upsweep and backsweep. Alternative bars are also available with bend configurations that seem initially more stylish than functional. Lengths are typically longer than my admittedly narrow 560mm, ranging upwards of 700mm and longer. While aluminum is still the material of choice, carbon fiber handlebars have entered into the realm of affordability.

My initial thoughts are an 80mm stem with 6 degrees of rise paired with a 650mm low rise handlebar. This combination seems like it would bring the bar up and back, thereby relieving some of the pressure on my hands while not drastically altering the handling of the bike. I still have no idea whether I will go with aluminum or carbon.

This is going to be a process of trial and error. I suspect it may be a while until I am able to settle on a combination that fits my needs. Until that time, I will keep you informed of my progress as long as you agree to make some suggestions along the way (I do not want to get lost in a sea of choices).

Review - Specialized S-Wrap Roubaix Bar Tape

I bought my Bianchi back in 2003. Since that time, it has been ridden many miles but I have yet to change the bar tape. Today, I decided to give to a bike that has given me so much. After a discussion with Josh at The Bicycle Shop in Baton Rouge, I chose to use the Specialized S-Wrap Roubaix tape to redress my ride. I have never changed bar tape before so I solicited as much advice from Josh as possible.

 As you can see from the photos below, the tape had gotten more than a little grimy. The dirt never really bothered me but recently, the tape has lost a lot of cushioning and had begun to tear during rides.

Peeling back the brifter hoods revealed just how nasty the tape had become. The hoods will have to be peeled back like below to allow you to remove and reinstall the tape properly.

To begin, the old tape must first be removed. Start with removing the bar end cap.

Once the cap is removed, peel off the finishing tape and any other adhesive tape securing the bar tape.

Next, unravel the old bar tape.

If your old tape was adhesively backed, there will be some cleaning before you apply the new tape. I used isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. It worked well at getting the old glue off. Below are before and after shots of the left over glue.

After you have cleaned the bar, the first step in applying the new tape is to cover the brifter clamp. Specialized provided a precut strap of tape with the package.

 Although "precut," the amount was generous and still needed to be trimmed to prevent sloppy overlap.

It was finally time to focus on wrapping the bar. Begin near the bar end, where the plug will fit in. In order to have a tidy end product, begin with leaving about 1/3 to half of the tape hanging over the edge (this will fold in when the plug is installed and leave a professional look to the finished product).

Make almost a complete revolution before progressing up the bar. Remember to keep constant tension while wrapping. A little tension will help the tape stay in place under stress (such as sprinting). Too much tension and you risk ripping the tape.

Progress up the bar overlapping the tape by roughly 1/3 with each revolution. Proceed to the brifter clamp and ensure you cover the area surrounding the first strap of tape that was placed.

When wrapping around the brifter clamp, rely on the first strap of tape to fill in the gap. Do not attempt to criss-cross the tape to make it pretty; it will only make things worse. Merely wrap PAST the clamp and continue to the top portion of the bar.

Continue to wrap around the top of the bar until you reach the bulge in the middle. Pay close attention while wrapping to how you ride, if you ride more on the hoods or in the drops. Wrapping with more overlap in those areas will provide you with more cushion where you need it most. Just remember not to overlap too much or you may run out of tape.

As you approach the center bulge, make sure to have your scissors at the ready. At the center bulge, use the scissors to cut the tape as it will lay to make a nice, even end in appearance.

Using the supplied finishing tape (although my local shop prefers electrical tape), secure the end of the roll in place.

The photo below shows the nearly finished product. The left side is completely wrapped and the end plug has been fitted. Notice how the right side has overhanging tape at the bar end. This is the excess that will be fitted into the plug.

Using both hands, stuff as much of the excess tape into the bar end and secure it using the plug.

The finished product!

The last piece of advice I have is this: Save the trimming! You will undoubtedly end up with some extra tape at the end of the process. Save this tape. The next time you wrap your handle bars, remember where your hands need extra comfort and lay these strips over the bar in those areas. Wrapping over these strips will provide you with additional cushion right where you need it!

The increase in comfort was immediate and much appreciated! The tape has a suede-like surface that provides a secure level of grip. I have ridden with the new tape but have not taken it out on a wet ride yet. I suspect the wet grip will be drastically better than the original cork tape. Over-all I am extremely pleased with the quality of the bar tape and I suspect it will be my go to next time I need to rewrap my bars.

New Orleans Cyclist Under Attack - Literally

There have been more than a few stories circulating around about the recent attacks that have happened to cyclists in New Orleans this past week. For those of you who do not follow the local news here, a brief recap: Two cyclists were attacked on the same night by two unknown males who ambushed both riders with head strikes from an aluminum baseball bat.

As a cyclist, I am terrified. As a citizen of New Orleans, I am both terrified and ashamed.

Unfortunately, this is what our city has become. The reports assert that these perpetrators are teens (likely 16-18 years old). Tragically, each time the media provide an age estimate of criminals in this city, they always overshoot. This leads me to believe that we are likely dealing with two people in their early teens (13-15). The fact that these children are allowed to roam the streets at 2:00 in the morning is an indication as to the quality parenting that they are receiving at home.

Growing up in New Orleans, bike thieves were the first criminals that I ever had dealings with. Even as a child, you learned to ride fast or else. The level of brutality that these two have exhibited is beyond my understanding. The first victim was hit in the mouth; teeth were broken as was his jaw. The second victim was hit in the back of the head; fracturing his skull. These are not the actions of a thief. These are the actions of someone who, if he hasn't already, will eventually graduate to murder. These perps have absolutely no concern for the pain and suffering of others. They must be stopped.

Many people have been discussing what can be done to protect cyclists. In this situation, I am afraid not much. Those who know me know that I am a strong supporter of the Second Amendment. The method of these attacks is such that there is almost no time in which to react. The ambush tactics create a sudden situation in which the danger is not present until it is likely too late. While I know many people who arm themselves while riding, I cannot image they would be able to recognize the threat, deploy the weapon (be it a firearm, pepper spray, etc.), and defend themselves in a manner that would not put other innocent people at risk. (Side note - for those looking for an effective concealment method while riding, I suggest the belly band).

The only things that can be done in a situation like this is
- Avoid dangerous areas and dangerous times of riding;
--- Stay in well lit, low crime areas if possible. It is better to ride a mile out of your way than to end up in the hospital or worse.
- Ride with others;
--- Predators are less likely to attack a group.
- If you see something, say something.
--- New Orleans criminals have long thrived under the fear of others to speak out. This culture of cowering in the corner has to stop. We cannot afford to continue handing the keys to the city over to the criminals just because we are afraid.

To the media: When these perps are caught or killed (eventually, one or the other will happen and I pray it is the former), I do not want to see you parading the crying mother around telling everyone how sad she is to have lost her little angel who "never did nothing wrong." We all know that is a lie and we are sick of hearing these same stories every time a criminal picks the wrong target.

To the law-abiding citizens of New Orleans: Stand up and reclaim what is yours!

Follow-up Review - Yeti Hardcore Lock-On Grips

So I finally got around to installing the new mountain bike grips. As expected, the installation went relatively smoothly. The only hitch that I noticed was that once the end caps were installed, it was difficult to determine if the grip was fully on the bar. It really came down to a judgment call. Ultimately, I figured if I tightened the outer ring first and did not notice any movement then I assumed it was in place.

The grips definitely feel more secure in my hands. I placed the large logo so that my palm falls naturally on top of it. This has created noticeably more cushion in palm than the Ritchey TGV grips they replace. I tightened the grips to factory specs. There is no side-to-side or rotational play in these grips. They are not going anywhere!

Even though both the TGV and Yeti Hardcore grips are designed for twist shifters, the Yetis are slightly shorter. In the photo below, you can see the gap between the inside of the grip and the shifter. That gap is the difference in length between the two. I have medium hands for an adult male and I cannot say I miss any of the extra length.

Review - Specialized Echelon II

This weekend brought some new toys into the my stable. First and probably the most important is a new helmet. This is only the third helmet I have owned. I have been fortunate in my life not to suffer any crashes that would necessitate a new helmet so my lids tend to last a very long time. My first helmet was from Giro. Bought in the early 90s, I have long forgotten the model name. The helmet was large, bulky, black, and came with a visor. When I bought it, my hair was considerably longer. This extra volume required a larger fitting helmet than what my actual head size is. Since that time, employment needs have dictated a hair cut. The helmet only fits now if I have a thermal beanie underneath. Several years ago I had a Specialized S-Works helmet that fit like a glove. Unfortunately, it suffered a fatal crack during transportation. I needed a new helmet for days when the weather does not permit a hat (which is most days in New Orleans). After a lot of searching, I decided to go back with Specialized for the excellent fit. As I have stated before, I have no interest in racing. I do not need the best and the newest. What I needed was a helmet that fit my head, protected my skull, and would not cost a fortune to replace if needed. The Echelon II fit the bill perfectly.

After unboxing, the helmet is clearly much smaller than any I have worn before. Gone are the days of my head looking like a mushroom cloud. Even though this helmet was half as expensive as my previous helmet, the technology that has gone into it has produced a much better lid. The vents are more plentiful. The weight is down significantly, as is the overall size. In short, this helmet just feels right. 

While the amount of heat transferred from the sun warming a helmet is minor, in the summer heat of Louisiana, that could be enough to push you over the edge. Because of this I wanted something light in color. White was the only choice that would fit that requirement without making me look like I was wearing a safety flag on my head. If I rode on city streets more, I would have probably gone with the Safety Ion (day glow yellow) color that is available.

The ratcheting system is located in the back and is easily adjusted with one hand while wearing the helmet. The range of adjustment is surprisingly good. If I let the tension out all the way, I can fit a beanie comfortably under this shell for cold weather rides. It appears as though my long faithful Giro is about to be relegated to the loaner parts bin.

Inside the helmet are well designed and well placed pads to both absorb sweat and increase comfort. The pads are secured in place with velcro patches.

When viewed from above, the amount of ventilation becomes apparent. Living in New Orleans, heat is always an issue. I am hoping that when the weather warms, these vents will be sufficient to effectively keep my head cool.

One additionally safety feature Specialized has included is reflective striping throughout the outer shell. One of these nights, I will try to take a picture to show the reflective properties. The maiden voyage of the new helmet will be today and I will likely follow this up with a more detailed review after a few more rides. This will also be my first ride in several weeks since I feel like this cold is finally going away. After over a week of couch surfing, I am ready to get back on the bike and sweat out this virus.

Of course helmets are a very personal choice. What have you chosen to protect your noggin?

Initial Impressions - Yeti Hardcore Lock-on Grips

Another safety related addition this week has been these Yeti Hardcore Lock-on Grips. During my last mountain bike excursion, I was navigating a section of downhill when the right grip slipped off. The Ritchey TGV grips that have been on the bars for several years have excellent grip to the hand. The issue I had was that my hand was still holding the grip but the grip was no longer attached to the bar! It was time for them to go. I spent a great deal of time searching for shorty grips (90mm) but it appears that in the years that I have spent away from the bike scene, twist shifts have all but died out for aftermarket support. After all was said and done, I stopped by Bayou Bicycles in New Orleans and had them order me a set of these. 

I have enjoyed Yeti Hardcore grips in the past. They have a good level of cushion when the large logo is positioned for palm side placement and the smaller text provides excellent gripping texture. While they still feel a little slim, they fill up the hand nicely when paired with a good pair of gloves.

This latest version of Hardcores is the lock-on variety. I have heard excellent things about lock-on technology and I am hoping that I will never experience the terror of riding downhill with only one hand on the bar! The lock-on clamps seem fairly straight forward. The level of mechanical skill required to install these grips is about on par with installing a water bottle cage (i.e. extremely easy).

I will be installing these on the Bontrager as soon as I get back from my road ride this evening. I will post more pictures as well as a more thorough review soon.

Have a favorite straight bar grip? Tell me about it.

Review - Bontrager RL Fusion GelFoam Gloves

It had been over 10 years since I last bought a pair of cycling gloves. The pair of Pearl Izumi gel gloves I had served me well. Comfortable, they fought hand numbness to the bitter end. When they finally expired, grip had been on a steady decline. The loss of grip was so gradual, however, that I was able to slowly become accustomed to it. The final death blow came when the pads on the palms simply feel off. This is in no way to be considered a flaw of the gloves. As I said, they lasted a good 10 years of heavy use.

When it came time to seek out a replacement, I opted to examine a name that had served me well with other products. Those who know me know how much I cherish my Bontrager Privateer. I decided to see what the Bontrager name had to offer when it came to gloves. Bontrager, a company that began as a small manufacturer of legendary hand-made frames, is now the in-house brand for Trek. Trek now applies the Bontrager name to pretty much anything outside of frames that comes out of their factories. 

Bontrager offers four variations of short fingered gloves. Of those, the RL Fusion GelFoam Gloves seemed to best fit the features I was looking for and the price point I was interested in. I placed an order for a white pair with GNO Cyclery (a New Orleans LBS that I have done extensive business with in the past). It only took a few days and I received a call that my gloves had arrived. I went down to the shop that afternoon and picked them up.

My initial impressions were strong. The fit was spot on and the stitching and finish looked well executed. Two of the features I appreciated the most upon inspection were the rubberized pull tab at the base of the palm to pull the gloves on and a rubberized cinch tab on the cuff restraint. Both of these features made the gloves much easier to get on and off as well as adjusting the cuff. 

Although I have only used these gloves on a handful of rides averaging only around 25km per ride, I have developed a better understanding of their true quality. First, and most importantly, these gloves provide excellent grip and I am pleased to say I have not experienced any numbness when riding my road bike. I have, however, noticed a little numbness on my mountain bike but this may be attributable to other factors - such as I notice I place a lot more of my weight on my hand when riding the Privateer.

The one negative thing I have to say about these gloves it that shortly after beginning use, the rubber application on the cuff adjustment for one of the gloves has separated from the velcro strap. I will attempt to remedy this with a judicious application of super glue. I hope this is not an indication of the true build quality of these gloves.

Next I will be looking for a set of full fingered gloves. Any suggestions?

Bontrager Privateer

A 1996 Bontrager Privateer Comp has been my bike of choice when attacking trails in the woods or simply looking for a leisurely ride around town. I bought this bike new in 1996 as a high school graduation present to myself. Of course, being a high school student, money was tight so when I picked up the bike it looked like a random selection of parts from all the deletions I made to fit it in my budget. Here is the catalog showing the parts the bike was supposed to come with. I had the shop delete the tires, tubes, seat, and pedals and I cannibalized parts from my aging Trek 820 to replace those.

The year before I bought this bike, I had broken my wrist and arm in a soccer game. Because of that injury, I had the shop replace the X-Ray Grip Shifts and Dia-Comp brake levers with a single Shimano XT combination unit. This alleviated my mental discomfort about changing hand position and rotating my wrist while on the trail. The other parts were replaced with Continental Explorers (gum wall of course), a Vetta TT Tri-shock saddle, and a set of Kore Gas Pedals (death traps).

This bike survived a season of racing while I was at Clemson University and several seasons while riding with LSU Team Mountain Bike. As time wore on, parts began to fail. First to go was the seat. Next, the suspension bottomed out and taco'd the front wheel. I managed to replace the seat with a Bontrager branded Selle San Marco seat in 1999 (to this day feels like it need a few more years to “break in”) and that same year I acquired an XTR front hub laced to a Mavic ceramic rim to replace the taco'd wheel. The wheel is probably older than the bike but had been hanging on the wall of the LBS for so long that I got a great deal on it and I had a race the next day so I couldn't afford to be too picky. About a year later, the entire wheelset was replace with a set of Deore hubs laced to Mavic rims with titanium skewers.

Soon after, the stock RockShox Quadra 21R died. The increased sag left a feeling like I was hanging over the front wheel and made the bike incredibly twitchy on descents (even mild descents). At that point, the Bontrager was semi retired and I got a Specialized Stumpjumper M4 to replace it. Although my computer said I was faster by an average of 2 mph on our local trail, the Stumpy just never felt right. After about a season or two, I replaced the Stumpjumper frame with a K2 Razorback with a Nolean Air rear shock. This bike was a couch on wheels! Supper comfortable, responded well to steering input but it still suffered from two problems that I could never correct. First, the rear shock was constantly leaking air. I received a rebuild kit from K2 for free even though I bought the frame off Ebay and it most definitely did not come with a warrantee (thank you K2 for the wonderful customer service!). The rebuild kit made a dramatic improvement in the shock but never really solved the problem. Second, the lock-out switch would lock the rear (sometimes) but would never release it (ever). It was then that I realized it was time to sell the K2 and Specialized frames and rebuild the Bontrager.

The Bontrager presents some unique challenges to rebuilding as compared to other bikes from its period. The fork was blown and needed replacing. When the bontrager was built, it was one of the few bikes that kept a 1” steerer tube. The industry standard had already shifted to 1 1/8”, a standard that is more or less with us today. The option to replace the front fork was limited to either bargain basement forks which were likely to fail in short order, ultra expensive custom fork from White Brothers, or rigid. Since the theme for this build was going to be “budget friendly bombproof” I elected to go with a quality rigid fork. Bontrager, however, threw in an additional little problem with the fact that his bike used a custom crown to achieve a non-standard offset. After a lot of searching, and some waiting for the stock to be replenished, I was able to get my hands on a Kona Project 2 fork with an axle-crown length that would be nearly perfect for the original geometry of the Bontrager. The original fork was threaded and the new fork was threadless. This created the new problem of having to replace the headset and stem. I wanted to keep as many original parts as possible and I saw no need to replace the handlebars so I needed a stem that would fit the original 25.4mm bars instead of the current standard 31.8mm. A 100mm Soma stem was called in to replace the Bontrager Race stem. Since the Soma is designed to fit a 1-1/8” steerer tube, a shim was installed. Cane Creek was sourced to provide the headset, an S2.

The drive train had been through hell and back. A new drive train was in order to revitalize this beast. Shimano LX crankset with external bottom bracket and LX rear derailleur were installed as was an XT front derailleur. SRAM Rocket 9 speed shifters control the gears and a SRAM 9 speed cassette grabs the chain. The old cantilever brakes have found their way to the parts bin and Cane Creek Direct Curve levers and calipers now scrub off the speed. Shimano M520 SPD pedals long ago replaced the KORE deathtraps and allow for proper release when needed.

The grips are Ritchey TGV but on the last ride, I had one actually slip off while navigating some nasty downhill. Lock-on grips will be on order soon but I haven't yet decided on round or ergo, bar ends or not...

 The original Bontrager Comp seatpost remains but gone is the Bontrager Selle San Marco torture device. A Specialized Body Geometry Tomac saddle now provides a surprising degree of comfort for my hind bits. Specialized Team Ground Control and Team Dirt Control tires keep the bike firmly planted.

No, its not full suspension, a 29er, or carbon fiber. It is a reliable, lively, predictable steel bike. Would I like other bikes? Sure. Will I ever get ride of this? Never! Don't buy the hype, by the bike that makes you want to ride it.

I still haven't gotten around to weighing the bike yet but I am pleased to say that it tears up twisty singletrack! Now the only problem I have is that I am feeling the effects of taking several years off of the trails. Unfortunately, there is a distinct possibility that this bike may soon be equipped with a set of slicks and be relegated to cruising the city streets. I am still on the fence about whether to repaint or not. As it is, there is no rust on the bike but it does have several spots that are paint-bare. As always, I am open to suggestions and I would love to hear your opinion on what you would do and what modifications you would make.

Future Plans:

26x2.3 Front and 26x2.1 Rear Tires (more volume to take the edge off the rigid build)

Lock-On Grips

Paint/Powder Coat?

Current Build--
Frame: Bontrager Privateer
Fork: Kona P2
Headset: Cane Creek S2
Stem: Soma
Handlebar: Bontrager Race
Shifters: SRAM Rocket 9 speed
Brake Levers: Cane Creek Direct Curve
Brakes: Cane Creek Direct Curve
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
Crankset/Bottom Bracket: Shimano LX
Cassette: SRAM Powerglide 9 speed
Chain: SRAM Powerglide 9 speed
Seatpost: Bontrager Comp
Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry Tomac
Grips: Ritchey TGV
Wheelset: Shimano Deore
Tires F/R: Specialized Team Dirt Control/Specialized Team Ground Control

This is one of the bikes I will never get rid of no matter what. What bike do you have an irrational attachment to?

Bianchi Campione

If you have ever wondered why this blog is called Bianchinut, here is the reason.

In 2003 I started to look at getting back into road bikes. My previous road bike was a small framed 650c Lotus that I rode when I was a kid. It had been over 10 years since the last time I had ridden skinny tires. Not knowing if this was something I would pursue with dedication, I wanted to keep the cost low. I checked all the local bike shops in the city I was living in at the time but nothing caught my eye. And so I took to the internet.

I searched nearby cities and found a shop in New Orleans that had a Bianchi Campione from the previous model year that just happened to be my size and was clogging up their showroom floor. I sent them an email and asked them to hold it for me so I could make the hour long drive to check it out. They luckily agreed. I packed up and went to the shop as quickly as possible and when I walked in, I found a beautiful steel road bike in celeste that fit like a glove. The shop agreed to drop the price a couple hundred dollars to get rid of it and I was happy to oblige them in clearing out the old stock.

The bike was pretty portly weighing in around 22 pounds. I am a firm believer in the philosophy that one should ride a bike extensively before deciding on changes. After about a year, I realized a few things that needed to go. First things first, the wheels. Campagnolo Mirage hubs laced to Mavic rims, durable, strong, heavy, and slow. I was able to find a good deal on a set of Bontrager Race Lite wheels and as you may know by now my love of my Bontrager Privateer has given me a mild obsession with Bontrager branded products. The improvement from the wheels was dramatic! An additional bump came from swapping out the OEM Vittoria tires for some Vredestein Fortezza Tricomps.

The next replacement in the Bianchi's diet was the steel fork. Stumbling across a Mizuno full carbon fork sealed the deal. Swapping from threaded to threadless created a need for my favorite headset – the Cane Creek S2. A Ritchey Pro stem completed the swap and created a total weight savings of a pound and a half from these three parts.

After about another year, the seat was replaced with a WTB Rocket V. Initially, this felt like a horrible mistake. After the seat was properly broken in, I began receiving thank you letters from my butt.

The classic geometry and light weight steel tubing make this bike an absolute pleasure to ride. No road buzz and even expansion joints are soaked up with little fuss. The flexibility and forgiving nature of the frame makes maintaining a line even in a bumpy turn an easy and drama free affair.

After a decade of riding this bike, I am still excited every time I throw a leg over it. My cycling companions have difficulty understanding this since they feel the need to replace their bikes ever few years. My advice to them is simply this: Don't buy the hype, by the bike that makes you want to ride it.

Current Build--
Frame: Bianchi Campione
Fork: Mizuno carbon
Headset: Cane Creek S2
Stem: Ritchey Pro
Handlebar: ITM Bianchi anatomic
Shifters/Brake Levers: Campagnolo Mirage
Brakes: Campagnolo Veloce
Front Derailleur: Campagnolo Mirage
Rear Derailleur: Campagnolo Mirage
Crankset: Campagnolo Veloce
Bottom Bracket: Campagnolo Veloce
Cassette: Campagnolo Veloce
Chain: Campagnolo 9 speed
Seatpost: Bianchi
Saddle: WTB Rocket V
Tape: Bianchi synthetic
Wheelset: Bontrager Race Lite
Tires F/R: Vredestien Fortezza Tri-Comp
Pedals: Look 206

About This Blog

I am not a professional cyclist, a journalist, or a photographer. I do not fancy myself an advocate or a racer. I commute to work by car. What I am is a recreational cyclist who has been riding bikes for mental and physical health since the early 90s. There was a time when I raced mountain bikes, both as an independent amateur in South Carolina and for Louisiana State University's intramural team. I have bike toured Burgundy and Louisiana. I have stood on the side of the road and cheered on the riders in the Tour de France.

I love bikes and appreciate them for their mechanical beauty. To me, a good bike is like a fine timepiece or a precision made firearm. All of these require attention to detail, fit, and finish in order to perform at their best. Each requires proper cleaning, lubrication, and frequent use. Corrosion is a death sentence to each.

Cycling today has become more complicated than it needs to be. Every year bike prices rise touting new materials, new designs, and new gadgets. Do not take this to mean I am a luddite. Some of these improvements are exactly that. Suspension improvements have made it possible to ride trails that would be a near certain death on a rigid bike. Shifting technology has improved the reliability and durability of many components.

However, not everything that is new is improved. Increasing rear gear selections from 9 speed to 10 speed to 11 speed seems to have created more problems than it solved. Sure there are more options to choose from but those options are incremental at best. Now, chains are thinner which makes them both more expensive to produce and purchase as well as weaker. So now you have a chain that you have to replace more often and it is going to cost you more to do so.

Yes, I admit that I saw an improvement in shifting performance when I switched from 8 speed to 9 speed but there are many factors in that and I do not believe that merely going from 8 to 9 speed was by any stretch the most influential. What is more likely is that I was replacing a drive train that was 10 years old and had seen substantial use.

These drive train increases serve another purpose other than just marketing more gears. This now creates a system of planned obsolescence. An example can easily be found on my Bianchi. When Campagnolo switched its base groups from 9 speed to 10 speed, the company produced a much more ergonomic shifter lever. In order for me to replace my 9 speed Mirage shifters with a new generation 2 ergo shifter, I would have to upgrade my cassette, chain, crankset, and front derailleur at a minimum. While this is a brilliant marketing strategy for the company it is painful for the customer.

I intend to incorporate reviews in this blog in an effort to stay relevant with modern equipment but rest assured, I will provide this information based solely on the value of the improvements and not recommend products simply because they are new and shiny. In that same vein, I do not intend to disparage a product simply because it is new and shiny either. My goal is to provide fair and accurate information that you can rely on when making decisions.

I have set a goal for myself this year. By the end of 2014, I hope to have completed 3,500km. I apologize to my fellow countrymen for the use of kilometers but there is a reason behind this. As stated above, I have no desire to race anymore. This does not mean that I do not value a good challenge. I have become intrigued by the notion of randonneuring. For those who do not know, randonneuring is non-competitive, self supported long distance cycling. Instead of racing against other riders, participants race against the clock. These rides are mapped in distances of 200km to 1,200km or more.

As I progress through the year (and hopefully beyond) I will chronicle my rides here. I intend to incorporate ride reports, photographs, and gear reviews throughout the process. I look forward to this journey and I am happy you have taken the time to join me. Feel free to contact me with any questions or suggestions you may have.

 Jack Ingram recorded a song whose refrain is most fitting for my future endeavor: “The road goes on forever and the party never ends.” Take care my friends and I hope to see you on the road!